Summer Trips, 2019
Tacoma
It was time for a
short trip and I wanted to take an Amtrak. It was off to Tacoma for an
overnight visit. I knew that I wanted to go to the Washington Historical
Society Museum and I thought I might like to go to a triple A ball game. Given
that the season was nearly over I had only a few choice dates for a game.
I left Vancouver on
the 8:38 am train heading north while the sun shone brightly. Half a year ago I
took a similar ride up to Olympia on a cold drizzly day. By the time I got to Tacoma
it was a bit closer to my first trip in that it was gray and misty. Towards
evening the clouds evaporated and it became a nice evening at Cheney Stadium.
From the Amtrak
station I headed to the Washington Historical Museum about half a mile away. I
spent two hours there looking at the main exhibit. It took us from the
geological beginnings of the state along with a bit of paleontology. In my
chronological tour I passed exhibits of cultures that existed here long before
Europeans showed up. The exhibit tour walked the visitor through things like
Tacoma during the Great Depression and the apple growing that is one of the
state’s hallmark items of produce. It was a fine set of exhibits, one that the
museum can be proud of.
Union Station Tacoma
Tacoma is not a
convenient place to drive to. The enormous amount of road construction along
with the kazillion exits and on ramps make me appreciate just getting past
Tacoma on I5. I don’t get off any of the exits for Tacoma as I am driving-I
just putz through until I get to the other side of the city. The stress relief
of taking the Amtrak was well worth it. I was to see the city on foot and local
mass transit.
Fortunately my motel
was within a mile of the museum and back towards the train depot. I was too
early to check in so I got a meal at the brew pub a block from the motel.
A large Greek salad
and a red curried chicken with rice was a great way to sate pangs until check
in time at the motel. I hiked a post-prandial several blocks up a hill to my
one night residence which was pleasant enough. I found a light rail stop that
headed several stops south to the theater district (and included the museum
that I attended only a few hours ago). The motel was up a hill and in the area
called the Dome district named after the rather gaudy construct used to
entertain the visitors of a variety of venues that a civic center would in
other cities. There are those displays of monstrous monster trucks driving over
immobile vehicles for instance.
The area surrounding
the motel was pretty bleak with vacant lots teeming with the detritus of fast
food ventures and Busch Light cans. From the parking lot I could see workers
doing something or another on the dome. Even though they were tethered to some
(I hope) stable post, it looked pretty scary.
I took a Lyft to the
Tacoma Rainier’s game against the Las Vegas Aviators. The season was within a
week of the end of its regular season. The team was too far away from the .500
mark to reach the figure. The Aviators were able to stay in first place by
soundly beating Tacoma.
I returned to the
motel and loafed the rest of the evening watching bad crime shows on the
television. The next morning I ate the complimentary breakfast which was
significantly better than most motels that are in league with those of my
budget level. My train ride home did not come until 7:00pm so I lingered in the
motel and it’s near vicinity until the checkout time at noon. I would be left
with a full 7 hours of idle daytime to bounce around town lugging a backpack.
For the first time in
my life I imagined a portion of the daily life of a homeless person in a large
urban area. I had nowhere that I needed to be and nowhere that I could go for
some sort of respite except that which I could muster for myself on park
benches and the like.
I was not homeless of
course and did not suffer the real facts of daily life. I have a place to live
and I have an income that is not likely to evaporate. It was just that for 7
hours I had to make due. So I took the light rail to the Theater district which
was only notable for the grim nature of this seemingly enterprising location.
At least at the light rail stop. Several genuine theaters did exist within
fairly short walks. The actual stop was not in a spot that would lure anyone
except curious travelers with nowhere else to go. I might add that the light
rail service within the city of Tacoma is free so not a bad way for a truly
homeless person get around.
Theater District
After about a half an
hour searching for a newspaper box that had any of the Seattle newspapers or a
mini-mart that sold them I finally found the last one. I found no Tacoma
newspapers save for one devoted to the LGBT community. I found it remarkable
that newspapers were so difficult to come by. I only wanted one to see the box
scores, read editorials and do crossword puzzles. I had one now and headed to
the waterfront to a park which was pretty good sized. I walked in the park for
a while of enjoying the riverside amble.
I enjoyed it for the
mild breeze and warm but not hot temperature. The view was pretty industrial so
it was weak from an aesthetic point of view. I found a flattened stone in the
shade which functioned well as a seat and spent about half an hour enjoying the
newspaper that I found in the fashion that I described above.
A week later I
traveled by car up to Seattle to see my daughters. I stayed both nights on a
couch at Lucie’s in the Georgetown neighborhood. On the first night one of her
friends from Baltimore was visiting. I have unfortunately, forgotten his name
but not what he did for us that night. He was here during a three month trip
around America and an Asian jaunt. He was about one month into his journeys.
More importantly he had been a chef at one of Baltimore’s better
restaurants-the Woodberry Kitchen. So…with assistance from many of us, he made Cippiono. (I include the link to provide a context
but the recipe there is only an approximation of what he made). It included
much fresh seafood and vegetables. My daughter and he bought all of the
ingredients and made everything from scratch. Many people, friends of my daughter
were there and we ate in the yard with a low keyed party til about midnight.
The nest day Lucie
and I lolled around her neighborhood for a while and then went to Lake
Washington for a hike and loafed on a bench in front of the lake for a while
until it was time for me to go to Kent to pick up my other daughter Hannah, and
bring her back to Georgetown for dinner. Since Hannah and Lucie have diet rules
we had to be precise in finding a place to eat. We chose Daimonji Sushi & Grill where I was the only one to make a
poor choice by selecting a cooked meal. The name has left me now but it was
basically fried chicken and rice. I eyed their genuine sushi selections with
jealousy as I ate my lousy food. I learned my lesson.
I returned the very pregnant Hannah
home to Des Moines, walked Lucie to her overnight dog sitting job, returned to
her house and went to sleep. The next morning I dropped Lucie off at work in
Pioneer Square at 6:00 am and headed south to Vancouver.
On September 16th I drove
to Lincoln City on the Oregon Coast. I left my place at 10:00am headed for
Newport 30 mile to south of Lincoln City. It was raining hard early in my trip
but was only cloudy at Salem about 50 miles away and then sunny a half hour
later and for the rest of the day.
I stopped at Depoe Bay where waves
were really crashing on the shore. At my feet was a swath of basalt maybe as
far as 50 feet wide and covering about 2000 feet to my left and right. I was
about 50 to 75 feet above the shore line.
The basalt swath of land was porous
and as waves crashed into it they forced water into the warren of pathways with
the swath. (I have to look up a better geological word than swath). Anyway
about once per minute a geyser erupted from the pressurized water that rushed
into the pathways within the basalt.
Geyser Photos
I stopped at Siletz Bay as well to
watch more wildly splashing waves. At Siletz there were several eruptions of
land in the shallow waters near the shore. Now I speculate as to what they are
or how they got there. I speculate since I don’t know and what I speculate is
that these promontories are residual of volcanic action that took place about a
kabillion years ago.
There was a copse growing out of the
tops of some of the projections.
Stiletz land formations
I ate poorly done razor clams (fried)
at a tacky tourist trap in Lincoln City with the anachronistic name of “Lil’
Sambos. The logo featured a leprechaun with a stack of pancakes and a
frolicking tiger. I suspect that prior
to the late 60s the logo was not that of a jolly Hibernian elf.
I stayed at the pleasant Ashley Inn
along tourist row in the town. About a year ago I began upgrading my motel
choices so relatively speaking, this is luxury living. I saw no exposed fire
arms during my visit there.
Out of my window I face west where
only about a mile separates this unit from the Pacific Ocean and all of its
majesty. Directly in front of me was Coastal Route 101. It is five lanes and when
turns are available it is about a mile from where I am staying. Walking across
this road provides more peril than I am willing to challenge. On my side of 101
there are only random walkways or places to walk to if I wanted to. This town
is not designed for pedestrians. It is a tourist town designed to attract
mostly summer visitors curious about the glories of the Oregon coast or the
kitsch of the tourism trade or both.
To the east which I can only see from
a block or two from the motel is a stunning view once one looks past the
trailer parks that are nearly subterranean in the fore ground. Douglas Firs and
other flora rise into the coastal range of the Cascades. They look down at the
coast almost haughtily as if they know that one day, long ago it was they who
were responsible for the magnificent glory of the coastal beauty. They are
silent but they know.
I was at latitude 44 degrees 59”24.17
and longitude 124 degrees, 0’17.85”
I came with some food so as to
provide succor to those 8:00 pm pangs. That way I prevented the purchase of a
badly done pizza slice or a bag of Doritos. Amongst my food stuffs were a
couple of tomatoes from my little garden. These were of the Serratt Cluster
species-about the size of a tennis ball and pulpier than water so they were
quite good. I sliced them, salted them added some pepper then ate them with
some cheddar. They sated those munchies quite well.
On Tuesday morning I awoke to some
steady rain at 7:00 am and it continued until I left around 10. I had a breakfast
of creamed sausage and biscuit since no eggs were available. It was an adequate
perk associated with motels around the country. There were no complimentary
issues of USA Today and so no crossword puzzles to complete. My headline news
had to come from the master of such-CNN. I left Lincoln City no wiser than when
I arrived.
So on September 17 I drove north in what
was a driving rain on the coastal highway. Typically I’m sort of “called” to
look at the Pacific whenever a view is available. This time I noticed the
mountains to the east. In them on this day were fog patches that would make
good photographs. Unfortunately I am not of the spirit to take photographs
during a down pour. In those same coastal range rises were the billions of
Douglas Firs reaching over a hundred feet into the air and often gorging
themselves on the foggy clouds in their canopy.
Anyway I got a break from rain long
enough to stop for a walk in Wheeler on the Nehalem Bay. There were several
good birds and here are a couple of shots to prove it.
Heron chasing and Egret from its hunting grounds
I also stopped in Warrenton
essentially to go to Ft. Stevens State Park. The first directional sign said
that it was 10 miles away. It was not. Later a sign said the next left would
lead to the park. It did not. The next 7 potential lefts were dead end
residential streets. The 8th included a sign indicating to NOW make
my left turn. I did. I drove several miles along this road with no sign of the
park. Now I had now driven about 15 miles since the first 10 mile suggestion.
It also started raining so I turned around to head to Astoria.
I reached my motel after making a
wrong turn on 101 and heading across the bridge back to Washington. I was not
thrilled by adding 10 more miles on my trip but I also love going over the
bridge which I have featured in these pages several times. It is the
Astoria-Megler Bridge which is a cantilever span about 5 miles across the
Columbia River. I stayed at the Astoria Riverwalk motel again which I described
several blogs ago.
It was dry when I got out of my car
to take some bird photos. About 10 minutes into the walk it began raining so I
retreated to the car for an umbrella. It continued to rain off and on as I
walked downtown. It was coming down pretty hard when I stopped in at the
Astoria Brewery Pub where I sat at the bar waiting for service that never got
there. Perky young people came in and were served post haste. After about 10
minutes I put my coat on and left. The perky young bartender was probably glad
and would then be able to attend to fellow perky young people.
Later I walked to a bar close to my
motel room and talked with Randy for a while. He had been to Baltimore several
times while in the army. Later on I had a beer at the Workers Tavern where on
Sunday nights they have Meat Bingo.
Just before securing my room I
stopped at a river side sea food shack and had some very superior clam chowder.
I determined to go back for a regular meal and perhaps some chowder to take
home with me.
Since the next day promised
significant rain I decided to go to historical sights. So on Wednesday I took
about a mile walk along the river at ebb tide and found around 25 little
Sanderlings prancing along the beach as the soft waves lapped benignly on the
sand.
Sanderling
I went to Ft. Clatsop that harbored
the Corp of Discovery for the winter of 1805-18o6. It was the last place they
stopped prior to heading home from their famous expedition. A well informed
ranger with lots of personality gave us an overview of the fort and how the
current one replicated the original (or didn’t). It was located in the midst of
a rainforest. While the sun shown above the canopy of 100 year old Douglas
Firs, it seemed to be raining in languorous ways as breezes shook water from overhead.
Then I walked down to where they kept their canoes and I took some photos.
Ft. Clatsop
From there I went to the visitor
center where a small museum existed with curated materials from the Clatsop
tribe and a few remnants of articles that were either from the exploration or
were contemporary artifacts used for the intention of display more than concrete
fact.
It was noon when I had completed that
mission and was now on my way to the Columbia River Marine Museum. While the
clouds became grayer and denser it was not raining and the sun obliquely shone
enough to keep it warm. No raincoat was necessary for warmth or to keep dry.
The Columbia River is a long and
massive river flowing from British Columbia southward until it meets what is
now the border between Oregon and Washington where it bends at nearly 90
degrees to head west and out to the ocean near Astoria where the museum is
located. It has been an important travel/trade route for about 230 years. Ship
building along the Columbia made communities along the river’s path, very
important during each of the World Wars.
The museum reflects those histories
as well as those of the native tribes that have built their cultures along the
river for centuries. It was a very well appointed museum
with excellent displays and informed staff. Both of my historical ventures of
September 18th were well worth the effort.
I went back to the Northwest Wild
Produce for my dinner. That was the shack I mentioned above. This time I got a
crab melt using local Dungeness Crabs. The woman serving me went back to the
kitchen after getting my order. She began crunching a crab to excise the meat,
then cooked it in preparation for my meal of French bread along with a couple
of pickled asparagus spears and chips. Nothing was prepared in advance and
sitting in a stainless steel bin until requested.
It stayed pretty sunny all afternoon.
I had pretty much accomplished all I wanted to do on this visit. Nothing is
perfect but I did pretty darned well. My feet were killing me yet I still, at
5:00 pm, decided to walk a half a mile to a pub and enjoy an IPA which I did
not need but certainly wanted. I became prey to my lesser mind and did just
that. Well, nothing bad happened and by 6:15 I was back in my dormitory for the
night.
The ride back to Vancouver includes
about 60 miles of state road 4 and goes along the northern side of the
Columbia. That drive is a good way to end a summer of trips and that is just
what I did.
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